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East of the legendary Khyber Pass, close to Afghanistan, you'll find this exotic town of commerce. Tea in large tin cans is sold from the old wooden houses, and a weather-beaten face with a turban will no doubt invite you to a cup of Chai. The nearby mountainous regions are the home of many of the different ethnic groups, who all come to this city to trade. A stroll in the old district is straight out of a fairy-tale book, but it isn't the safest place in Pakistan, with the Taliban militia in Afghanistan nearby.

Besides Buddhist and Gandaraic artwork, there's a fine ethnographic collection from the tribal people of the area. If you want to understand how they're different from the ordinary Pakistani, this is a good place to start.

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