21/12
today is 23/12 I am in Kyoto trying to type these on a Japanese keyboard, not easy because if I touch a key accidentally keyboard, the characters chane or sentences are duplicated!
Istanbul
showerr and shave, slept very well. did some exercise using spare blanket as floor cover. The radiator (ther was one as floor cover. The radiator (ther was one!) floor cover. The radiator (ther was one!) had dried my clothes from the night before. had washed both my jeans in Uganda but both look dirty, hard to get the clay out of textile.
Have chai and tost at a teashop while groups of men arriving at a nearby meeting hall all greeting one another (some touch the two corners of forehead to one anothers, hadnt seen that before), some kind of a political party?
Try to find a tourist info, THREE hours later still walking, ankle sore, get couple of hours of tram ride to get some rest as well as see the city. Port very busy with fishermen, travellers, boats doing Bosphorus trips or going over to the Asia side of Istanbul. BNosphorus tour sounds interesting but I need 3 hours and cant risk it. so I go to the Asian and cant risk it. so I go to the Asian side, all I see is pople, shops and more of the same again and agin, Boring!
Retrun to the Europe side and find a self-service food place, not bad. ask the guy about shishe, he makes a joke whether I want a beer shishe etc, luckily some guy in the queue helps and I am directed to a place offering Nargila (turkish shishe), 20 minutes later and I find the place and sit outside this cafe under covers as the rain begins to pour, good timing. Inside dozens of men are glued to TV watching football and changes of emotion are funny to watch from outside, this also means I dont get the service I hoped for when i want my second cup of tea but i order when the nice man comes to renew the red hot coals on my shishe. meanwhile it is pouring with rain and i have had to change seats to get out of the rain. it is rather chilly now but i am not giving in, rest of the locals have retreated indoors or left altogether. the smoke from the Orange flavoured tobacco combined with steam due to cold weather is pretty impressive.
I leave about 8.45 and have missed the worst of the rain, wanted to get some shampoo but dont fancy carrying 300 ml bottle so forget it. Got charged 24 LTR for left luggage even though the other guy said 12 but i am over the 24 hour limit AND the man is giving himself a heart attack justifying the charge.
During the day gotr stopped by teh police, i looked a right hobo with my plastic bag containing sleeping bag tied to my daypack, they let me go once they realised i was a tourist.
funny one* the youngster at the passport control starts rubbing vigorously on my passport photo and generally manhandling the pages of my passport, and calls over his supervisor to confirm it is genuine!
Airport
While at waitingarea the Japanese chap near me keeps thumping his calf mucles with his fist, It is annoyiing as it also shakes the bench he is sharing with me, may be I could help himout by thumping him myslef? then I notice there are similar behaviours going on by others too, a fair number are also wearing face masks. Turkish airlines tend to dish out these small bags of stuff every flight (different ones each time I think, socks, tooth brush and past, sleep mask,) feels such a bloody waste of stuff. very cute hostess with whom I flirt throughout the flight good fun. Ling flight but I do manage to sleep a fair bit, they serve food for what would be normat time of 1 a.m and then about 9 a.m which confuses the system. I manage to open the loo door on and a scream rises from the Japanese lady on tthe toilet! no eye contact when she comes out eventually, I was going to make appologetic noises. I notice she is not the only one not locking the door behind her/them!
Almost forgot, they are quite strict on fluids taken into boarding area so one Japanese lady is most disapointed when her 2 cans of turkish beer is confiscated from her hand luggage, they offer for her to drink then which she does not and they are poured away, no ideas what Efes beer tastes like but dont want to drink while flying either.
Chattingto Toshiko my travel companion i decide to go straight to Kyoto instead of overnight stay at Osaka which even from my brief search of travel catalogues is hardly mentioned anywhere. Her taxi is full so I make my own way by train, as a visitor my ticket is cheaper than normal, nice trains, as i wait for the train to be cleaned before boarding, the seats swivel electrically to face all the same way!
Oh, the Japanese seem to like having lots of people doing same job; or one person doing the work while 5 others administer or supervise, it took 5 FIVE people to change my money, I was lucky if i wasnt filling the forms (yes you do fill forms and one form per currency) there would probably have been 6 or more!
It was a good idea to go to Kyoto, so much to see, saw much less than i hoped as i am trying to recover from a 17 hour trip.
Problems - language; very little is written in English and very little spoken too
good point; you ask directions and they are liable to come with you all the way: day one on arrival while trying to locate my hotel (probably the cheapest in town at 4200 ¥ about 30 pounds sterling) i stop and ask these people about to enter a bar after their work, about 9.30 p.m, they phone around and get the number for the hotel, get directions and then two girls actually walk and hand me in at the reception of the hotel. Day 2 I ask for directions to an internet cafe, agian two young men ask around and point me in the direction (just across the road embarrasingly), Day 3 I am looking for a temple and as i am looking at a map another cyclist (I hired a cycle last night for 24 houirs, great way to get round Kyoto on pavements, it is also power assisted which is handy on the hills, I am becoming more and more dependent on mechanical transportation as I am rather tired or just have to face the old age! realities of not being to walk 10 hours a day) asks if i need help (i aassume that is what she is saying) and then proceeds to follow my on her bicycle for about two miles (I am not sure if she had planned on going that direction since it is the other corner of Kyoto from Kiyomizodera temple i had just left. I am aware of it getting late both for the temple opening hours and also for returning the bicyle but by now dont have the heart to turn around!eventually i am delivered to the gate of the temple and the woman (by the way even though you dont understand a word they will still continue explaining in Japanese anyway) leaves, I pay my respects from the gate, get on my bicycle and find a nice little route alongside a little stream to get back into town to return the bicycle.
My heart warmed by kind gestures of these people who literally go out of their way, set aside what they are doing to get you what you want, I can relate to that, not sure whether this is a cultural/religeous trait but I am grateful regardless.
At the railway station when I arrived at Kyoto, i notice these machines with food pictures on, you stick some money in press the botton and get a receipt then when I walk into the place I hand it in to the guy behind the counter and a few minutes later my food appears, unfortunately it tastes and looks too much like spaghetti bolognese! the place is very small, barely one meter space between the counter and the wall, men lined up with their bowls of food with work clothes, lots of slurping going on as no spoons are handed out even with what looks like soup so you drink from the bowl.