15th
I have a rest about 10.45, it is early but I am already tired. I manage to find a semi-cabin in a foret along the road on my own side of the road and sprawl out onto the poncho, I get a little rest but little sleep. During the day I do try to get some vegetarian food without much luck, they all say yes but the noodle soup invariably turns out with chicken in one place and beef (inedible) in another. In the first one I thought of leaving the chicken, but it seemed wasteful and just pretentious as it will mean nothing the owner, who tried charging me 3k but got 2k instead (handed over with both hands which is very traditional polite way of giving and receiving things or even raising a glass of drink to someone). In the second place I got surrounded again by youngsters and kids, a bit tiresome specially because I am quite tired and could really do with a nap. Youngsters usually arrive on bikes and say hello and got a much bigger hello and handshakes from me. A box of sweets is also brought to the table, it is Tet after all. I am wondering how I would feel the day I would walk into a place and not be treated as something so special. The kids who know a little English usually rattle off all the questions and phrases they know. Every one I have ever met here first asks, where you from, how old, what your name.
I put my head down on my forearms on the table to get a little rest and get a tap on my shoulder a few minutes later. I open my eyes to see a hammock set up next to the bike! nice move, hospitable people. I try to get some rest, over an hour actually but with all the discussions going on around me and the traffic 10 meters away didnt sleep much.
Road surfaces havent been so good today. I have practiced and few times actually have had to pull off the road in order to avoid oncoming traffic. Later on road gets better and some beautiful countryside and sunset about 25km from Buon Ma Thout. I try to find somewhere to stay but keep being told 5km away. I ride about 20 minutes in almost blind conditions, there are no road lights, I cant see the edge of the tarmac, my bike light is not enout to light the road adequately and there are drivers/riders with no lights as well as pedestrians walking with their backs to the traffic. I have no idea how I managed to get through, I did stop a few times to ask for a hotel and eventually ended up entering the city, and miracle of street lights was very welcome indeed, this is the latest I have ridden, not nice. I am sent of a wild goose chase for a hotel but luckily am guided by a man who jumps on his bike and leads me to a hotel. The hotel is infested with cockroaches, hadnt come across this before and not really prepared for it nor wanting to stay. They are asking 150k! and try to deal witht the cockroaches using broom or spraying them, I can see quite a few running for their holes in the wall witha plan to return later on to keep me comp;any.
Next hotel is very nice indeed and for the same rate I have a pretty good room, plumbed wash basin (up to now the basin water has been running onto the bathroom floor and then into the drain) air freshner, towl even bathrobe! In the lift on the way up, I am looking at this sunburnt face, scarf around the neck, stubbles and looking generally rough, yes it is Me.
This is the first time I have actually stayed in a biggish town I guess. In the basement heavy music is playing and outside hundreds of mopeds have delivered youngsters to the disco. The wifi system doesnt work with my laptop and after a shower I head off out. I grab a sandwich, the sandwich stall also sells soft drinks, cigaretts and petrol too! I take a little walk around, youngsters are cruising on their bikes or on foot. Lots of food stands are serving the usual fare, noodle soups with chicken, sandwiches, various stalls selling garishly couloured balloons. I am not accusted by anyone which is a nice change. I have made really good distance today and will explore the area tomorrow, the area before the town was very scenic but it was getting too dark to see much. I am hoping that the scenery will continue the other side of the town too. It didnt.
I have left my bike with luggage unattended many times, usually because I want to buy something or because the place I approach for food refers me elsewhere and I dont wnat to take the bike with me. I did lose the torch Joseph had given me a few days ago, my own fault as I had left it sticking out of the pocket of the holdall, shiney blue torch must have been too tempting.